About Ice Slope Mobility Group Protection

The method of three-man group mobile protection is very good. If a rope team unexpectedly occurs, the other team can immediately implement the rescue. Otherwise, they all have to spend a long time trying to withdraw, and the trio must be faster. If three people are grouped in mobile protection, A is in the front, B is in middle, and C is the end. The general steps are:

1. At the head of the rope, double-stranded characters are attached to the seat belt of A. The end of the rope is tied to the C-belt.

2. A screw into the ice cone 1, lanyard, forward, screw into the ice cone 2, lanyard;

3. B goes between the cone of ice 1 and the cone of ice 2 and fastens itself to the master rope by means of iron locks;

4. A forward, screwed into the cone of ice 3, lanyard, B to go between the cone of ice 2 and the cone of ice 3, C forward removal of the cone of ice 1;

5. A forward, screwed into the cone of ice 4, lanyard, B to go between the cone of ice 3 and the cone of ice 4, C forward out of the cone of ice 2;

6. A forward, screwed into the cone of ice 5, lanyard, B to go between the cone of ice 4 and the cone of ice 5, C forward removal of the cone of ice 3;

7. The ice cone is used up, and C transfers the ice cone 123 to A via B;

8. Take this cycle forward.

If there is a tacit understanding between the players, it should be possible to make progress at the same time. Both ends of the rope should be tied directly to the seat belt. Do not connect through the iron lock to reduce unnecessary intermediate links. The impact of the last person's slide should be minimal.

If two people are grouped, there are two options:

Solution a: The general procedure is the same as the triple group mobile protection. Only one middle player is missing, but is the 180mm cone of ice strength enough between the two? Use two ice picks between two people (I personally don't believe that the strength of an ice cone is too much).

Option b: A in front and B in back.

Step 1: B is screwed into the ice cone as a protection point. A moves forward and B continuously releases the rope.

Step 2: A is screwed into the ice cone as a protection point, B is moving forward, and A is continuously collecting the rope.

Summary: It is still a little quicker to implement Option A, but whether Option B can be made safer is based on the fact that the protection point is solid and can guarantee a shorter distance. However, the implementation of scheme b is a lot more troublesome. It can be practiced.

The two groups move protection, once A slips on the ice slope, and B can no longer provide protection (self-insurmountable), the following two extreme conditions.

Measure a: B and A slip in the same direction, and finally rely on the reverse pulling force of the rope and the friction between the rope and the iron cone at the cone to stop A. This requires the strength of the one or two ice cones in the middle.

Measure b: Just as B in the alpinism said in the other direction, the snow jumped down and pulled back in the opposite direction of the rope, so that the strength of the ice cone could not be considered.

But how much boldness it takes! I believe few people will consider this move. As the same way said, a body of a child, B reaction speed is surprisingly fast, one does not want to think immediately do not want to jump down towards the snow, in fact, only a little shake it, this can be miserable. And if the snow is very steep, then for B, the situation is like falling into the ice cracks, and the implementation of the rescue is very complicated. But if B can no longer control, and found that the cone of ice protection point is not reliable, then in addition to this method can not think of other good methods.

Even if it is walking normally, it does not rule out the situation where the snowball falls. Once it occurs, the falling teammate may be left unconnected, and the situation is almost the same as falling into the ice crack. Correspondingly, ice cracking and rescue measures must be adopted. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a knot for rescue or self-rescue (preferably equipped with pulleys).

Pass the lock first, and then pass through the ascent device. After the lock is over, the ascender is stuck and you cannot slide. When you go through the ascender, if you fall, the lock will get stuck in the cone of ice. Can't slide down. Each point of protection hits two cones of ice. A is at the front, B is at the middle, and C is at the end.

step:

(1) A moves forward, and B and C hang themselves on the ice cone. If the danger is ahead, B uses ATC to release the rope to protect the armor.

(2) A goes to a certain position (that is, there is a certain wealth from the rope), hit two cones of ice, and hung himself and the rope.

(3) The middle player then passes along the rope with a riser.

(4) B goes to place A and hangs himself on the ice cone.

(5) C removes the cone of ice, and A and C advance simultaneously. If there is danger ahead, B can use ATC to protect both people at the same time, or wait until A arrives before proceeding.

(6) C went to B and hung it on the ice cone. He took out the two ice cones to B. At this time, A hit two cones of ice in front of him, and then he cycled forward.

B plays the role of passing the cone of ice from C to A. Remember not to find that A has gone to the next point and found himself without the cone of ice! If the player uses the ATC rope to protect the rope in the middle of this method, it is extremely tiring. If A and C slip at the same time, technical requirements for B are higher. When A and C advance at the same time, they must coordinate each other's speed. Substitution before and after this method is relatively simple. When walking to the ice cone, the first step is to hang yourself on the ice cone and do other operations. In the case of unsturdy snow ice or the use of ice cones in deep snow, large hailstones can be used for protection, and large hailstones can be fully inserted into the snow (which can be used as small breaks), as described in the mountain biblical text.