Grade of equipment climbing

More gratifying, the level of equipment climbing the world uses the same standard - A1 to A5 (Australia uses the M0-M8 system. M stands for mechanical, that is, equipment and equipment). The route marked by C1-C5 indicates that the cleanaidcliming must be maintained, and auxiliary equipment can only use rock plugs so that no scars are left on the rocks. Sometimes, the route that must maintain the original appearance is also based on the A0-A5 system. If a mountaineering route is based on the C0-C5 system, it is hoped that later climbers will respect the established tradition and try to keep the original appearance of the route. In fact, to put aside climbing methods and concepts, the C system and the A system are exactly the same in terms of difficulty.

Unfortunately, there are many explanations for this standard. In general, the level somewhere is always dependent on the record at the time of the first completion.

The general situation is also a more traditional way of saying that the development of equipment climbing grades complies with:

A1: The placement of all stress points is simple and reliable.

A2: The placement of all stress points is fairly reliable, but the operation process is a bit difficult and awkward.

A3: The placement of many stress points is not reliable, but there are often reliable protection points.

A4: Individually continuous can not withstand stress points greater than the weight load.

A5: Above 20 meters in succession, a large number of unreliable stress points.

In Europe, most of the equipment routes were completed long ago. Some of the difficulty levels of these routes have already been downgraded. In short, the placement of A3 protection points is not reliable, but it can withstand short-range fall. A4 will have some protection points that can only withstand the weight, but it is not uncommon for them to appear continuously. A5 has not heard of it. And A0 is used to define those routes that have a permanent, solid protection point.

In the United States, modern equipment and passion drive people to continuously climb higher and higher walls. In the incredible short period of ten years, equipment climbing has been pushed to the extreme. It also changed the interpretation of the grading standards. This is explained by John Long and John Middendorf in the BigWall book on the criteria for modern equipment climbing standards:

A0: Hang on the equipment, step on the rock cone, and climb on something like a rock plug. There is no need to use a ladder, but it cannot be called "free climbing." Maybe it can be called "French free climbing."

A1: Simple climb. The placement of force points is simple and firm, and each one can withstand falling.

A2: Moderate climb. Strong but often difficult to place good stress points. There will be one or two unreliable stress points above a firm stress point. Falling posture is not dangerous.

A2+: Moderate climb. There will be more unreliable stress points on a firm stress point. There is a possibility of serious fall, but generally nothing major.

A3: Difficult climb. A number of consecutive unreliable stress points must each be tested before loading the weight. Although there are several reliable points in each pitch, they are few and far apart. In the fall, there will be more than eight stress points that may fall off, which is a little dangerous. It takes a few hours to complete a pitch.