In the climb, you should clearly recognize your position as a center of gravity and flexibly control the movement of your center of gravity. So how should the novice control the body weight when climbing?
Novice control method of gravity
The main purpose of moving the center of gravity is to reduce the load on the hands and keep the body in balance. At the beginning of school, most of the movements were blind, and I didn't know the movements. I just wanted to raise the height. In fact, it is best for beginners not to rush to climb. First, I would do a translation exercise for a period of time, that is, move horizontally from one side of the rock wall to another. Side, experience the basic skills such as center of gravity, balance, use of hands and feet.
In the most basic three fixed points, when one hand changes points, the center of gravity is generally moved to the opposite side, so that the hand has no load before leaving the original fulcrum, and can easily be shot. When moving laterally, the center of gravity should be lowered so that the hands are hung on the fulcrum rather than trying to pull the fulcrum. Under normal circumstances, you should step on your feet and reach out to the next point instead of stepping on your feet and pulling your body upwards. It is important to note that using the power of the leg to lift the center of gravity upwards, the hand only maintains balance when moving upwards.
It is generally considered that the body should be as close as possible to the rock wall. This is true, but it is common for some masters to often physically far away from the rock wall. This is because their common preparatory actions such as lateral pull, hands and feet, and balancing the body need to work with rocks. There is room between the walls, just the moment the body rises, and the body is attached to the rock face. Usually the center of gravity adjustment is mainly achieved by pushing and pulling the waist and leg balance. The waist is the center of the human body. Its movement directly moves the center of gravity. Larger movements often form some very beautiful movements. Stretching the legs horizontally and using the weight of the legs to balance the body is also a common practice.
Novice control center of gravity method 2, side pull
Lateral pull is a very important technical movement. It can save extreme upper body strength. Some of the original fulcrum points can be easily achieved, especially when used in over-high elevations. The basic technical point is the body's lateral rock wall, with the body's opposite hand and foot touching the rock wall. The other leg is straightened to regulate body balance. The body is lifted by one leg and the upper fulcrum is grasped. Taking the left hand to grasp the fulcrum as an example, it is the body facing left, the right leg bent on the fulcrum, the left leg used to maintain balance, the right leg sacral point force, the right hand outstretched grasping the upper fulcrum.
Because of the physical condition of the person, the knee is bent forward. If he is facing the rock wall, lifting the leg and stepping on the body must push the body out. Changing to the body's lateral rock wall can solve this problem well and the body is closer to the wall. , to pass more weight to the feet, and can use the height of the whole body to achieve a higher fulcrum, lateral pull action should be noted that the following aspects: the body side rock wall, step foot should point outside the toe, do not step Too much to facilitate changing feet or turning around.
If this is higher, you can pull the fulcrum sideways with both hands, hips fall backwards, increase the waist space, raise the foot and point, and then put your hands back to the center of gravity to pull back on this foot, lift the other leg, do not step on To keep balance, the fixed hand is only responsible for pulling the body towards the rock wall. The body is completely lifted by the force of one leg. It does not rely on hand pulling to save the arm strength.
Before the hair force, the waist ribs are pushed against the rock wall, and the weight is transmitted to the feet. Do not fall loosely. This should be taken into account when climbing the Cape. The mobile hand should be lifted upward before the force is applied, and the ribs are attached to the rock surface. Otherwise, the hand is pushed down from the bottom to the head, and the middle body will push the body away from the rock wall, increasing the burden on the fixed hand. After the side pull is completed, the second flank can be pulled continuously. After the two hands are held steady, the hair force is used as the axis to make a turn. The face is turned to the opposite side, and the balance leg is crossed before the force leg. A point on the outside of the toe is pressed, and the balance leg becomes a force-stretching leg, and the moving hand becomes a fixed hand, and the next side-pulling action is performed. In the meantime, there must be less foot points for foot strength, otherwise it is not easy to do swivel movements. Side pull is mainly used when the over elevation angle and fulcrum are arranged close to a straight line.
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