Text / Orange Figure / Collected from the network
It is necessary to say which national ancient costume culture is the most colorful, and certainly not our Chinese nation. For example, the deep clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the improved version of the Hu clothing uniforms, the Qufu deep clothes in the Qin and Han Dynasties, the Xianxian skirts, the wide-clothing belts in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the cloaks in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the big-sleeved shirts in the chest, the Song Dynasty The narrow-sleeved shorts of the period, the quality sun dresses and robes of the Liao and Jin Dynasties, the cheongsams and robes of the Ming and Qing Dynasties... Each dynasty costume has its own unique charm!
The evolution of costumes in various dynasties in China
But the problem is... the beauty of many ancient costumes is beautiful, and the words to be painted...the amount is really not a little difficult (holding the head), and it is no wonder that some children who paint the ancient illustrations are going crazy, I really don’t understand the ancients. I want to make such a lot of tricks out ((走(╯°Д°)╯)
In fact, this is no stranger to our ancestors. Everyone knows that ancient China was a feudal society with a very hierarchical system. The objects used were symbols and logos of identity. Naturally, clothing is no exception, except for warmth and shame. Tool of. Moreover, almost every dynasty ruler will unify the clothing to achieve control over people's ideas. Therefore, the costumes of each dynasty were a reflection of politics, economy, and culture at that time. For example, in the early period of the Western Han Dynasty, the people were not allowed to wear all kinds of colored clothing, and they could only wear natural linen. The officials of the Tang Dynasty were from one product to nine products. The color of the clothes is purple, enamel, green, and green.
Therefore, we can understand that the costumes of the ancients are so complicated and stressful. If you can't do it, you have to lose your head. (It’s terrible, thank you for living in modern times, is there wood?)
Although the costumes of various dynasties are ever-changing, they are not separated from their ancestors. Just like now, although the trend is different every year, there are always classic items that are versatile and timeless (such as shirts, jeans, dresses, coats).
Before introducing the trending costumes of the ancients, we need to understand the basic forms of the ancient Chinese clothes system. In general, ancient Chinese costumes can be divided into blouses and clothes.
Under the top, the clothes are worn on the upper body, and the clothes on the lower body are the "sports" (that is, the clothes on the upper and lower sides are separated). This shape is formed in the Shang Dynasty and is the basic form of the earliest clothes system in China. . The reason why we call clothing "clothing" now comes from this. But what is different from the present is that the ancient "sports" refers to skirts rather than pants. Moreover, the ancient men and women were all dressed up, until after the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the dress became a woman's special clothing. (Now, if a man wants to sway in the street wearing a skirt, people want to have to look at him differently, thinking that this person is not a trendy man or gay)
The skirt is the representative costume of the top under the jacket.
The clothes belong to the genus, that is, the blouses under the blouse are merged into one, and the representative costumes are the deep clothes that appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Why are you screaming? As the name suggests, it is to let you "body" hidden. Because there were tables in the ancient times, people met and talked, sitting on the mat cross-legged. At that time, people's clothes were very loose, the bottoms were wearing skirts, and the tops had no buttons. They could only be fastened with ties, so that the body would easily go out. We must know that the ancients did not have the freedom to "look and reveal" at this time. In some ceremonial activities, part of the body was exposed, but it was very indecent. Therefore, the form of clothing such as the deep clothes came into being! The appearance of the deep clothes can be said to have a profound impact on Chinese clothing. The robes and shirts of later generations, even the dresses we wear now are the legacy of the deep clothes!
Straight squat
Qufu deep clothes
After understanding the basic form of the costumes, let's take a look at the classic costumes of the ancients with Xiaobian!
[One of the trend items: Qufu Shenyi]
Qufu deep clothes popular in the Qin and Han Dynasties, was the most common type of clothing in women's clothing at that time. The characteristics of this kind of clothing are that the body is tight and narrow, the length can be dragged, and the hem is generally trumpet-shaped, and the line is not exposed. The sleeves are wide and narrow, and the cuffs are mostly edging. The collar part is very distinctive, usually for the collar, and the neckline is low to reveal the coat. If you wear a few pieces of clothing, each layer of the collar will be exposed, up to three or more layers, called "three heavy clothes." This is very different from our current dressing habits. Imagine if you were exposed to the collar of a fall coat in winter, it is estimated that people will think that the soil is slag.
[The trend of the second product: 襦 skirt]
The 襦 skirt is the representative costume of the blouse under the blouse. It is a style of women's clothing with a lower skirt (short blouse). It originated in the Warring States Period and was finally in the Qing Dynasty. With the changes of the dynasty, the style of the skirt has also changed a lot. During the Han Dynasty, the captain was extremely short, only to the waist, and the skirt was very long, drooping to the ground, and crossing the right squat (referring to the collar to the right side of the body, if the system is reversed, it will be a joke, because the left 衽 often The style of the shroud of the deceased). In the Sui Dynasty, the woman wore a narrow round neck or a short coat, a long skirt with a high waist and two streamers on the waist.
éš‹æœè¥¦ skirt (left) and Han Dynasty 襦 skirt (right)
However, Xiao Bian's favorite is the women's skirt of the Tang Dynasty! Chang'an in the Tang Dynasty was a center of international political, economic, and cultural exchanges, and it was close to North Korea, Japan, and Persia. These all created the open and romantic style of the Tang Dynasty costumes. In the early Tang Dynasty, women wore short sleeves and long skirts. After the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of aristocratic women gradually turned into broad and drag. For example, in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, a chest-chest big-sleeved shirt was popular, and the upper part of the chest, the large sleeves, the confrontation, the long skirt and the shoulders were popular, and the aristocratic women wore clothes in the courtyard, collecting flowers, catching butterflies, and playing dogs. This dress skirt is high above the breast, tied with a large belt, boldly exaggerating the woman's legs (the ancients also know how to wear high waist and stretch the lower body proportions), the fabric is mostly leno products. Covered only with light gauze, this attire is closely related to the idea of ​​openness at the time.
The film and television drama "Wu Mei Niang Legend", popular in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, a chest-chest big-sleeved shirt,
For aristocratic women walking in the courtyard, collecting flowers, catching butterflies, and often wearing costumes for dogs.
The style of skirts in various periods of the Tang Dynasty
In the Tang Dynasty costumes, in addition to the skirts, there is something worth mentioning. It is an essential part of the Tang Dynasty women's wear. Don't look at it as an accessory, but it plays a very important decorative role. In some of the Tang Dynasty maids, we often see some women carrying a long strip (ie, 帔) on their shoulders or arms, walking in the wind, I do not know how much grace for women. Throughout the ages, even though women's clothing has been constantly changing, the standard clothing component of the singer's paintings has continued to this day.
The basic components of the Tang Dynasty women's wear include: shirts, skirts and plaits
The mural painting of the Tang Dynasty in the Shaanxi Museum
It can be said that no woman in a dynasty is so bold and open, so loves gorgeous costumes. Many times, the pursuit of beauty is often considered a "sinful" thing, and in the Tang Dynasty alone, beauty was placed in a supreme position. Interested in children's shoes, if you have time, go to the Tang Dynasty Mural Treasure Hall of the Shaanxi Museum to savor it. I believe you will not be disappointed!
[The trend of the third product: Hu clothing]
Hu clothing, that is, the Xi'an ethnic group (the ancient Chinese people's collective name for Western minorities) and Donghu's clothing. Hu clothing is characterized by shorts, trousers, and leather boots, and the body is tight and easy to ride. In the history of Chinese costume evolution, Hu clothing culture and Han costume culture have been merged many times, and the earliest introduction of Hu clothing into the Central Plains was Zhao Wuling Wang during the Warring States Period. At that time, Zhao Guo was located in the north and had more contact with the nomadic peoples in the north. Zhao Wuling Wang saw that the Hu people had more flexibility in riding and shooting because of wearing narrow sleeves and short squats, and they had a famous history in the country. Hufu riding and shooting" reform. The reformed costumes gradually became the military uniforms of various countries during the Warring States period.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the emperor set Hu clothing as the clothing of the field hunting, or the upper and lower uniforms. At this time, the Hu clothing has been changed from military uniform to civilian clothing, which has a great relationship with the Hu people living in the Mainland. At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, women wore Hufu to become a social style. They could wear Hu men’s clothing and sway in the street.
[Four Trends of the Four: Cheongsam]
Cheongsam can be dignified, charming, beautiful, and the woman's style can be displayed by it. Compared with the ancient costumes, it can be said that we are the most familiar one. The cheongsam appeared in the Manchu period and was the main costume of the Manchu women at that time. After many improvements, it is still a good woman's heart.
In the movie "In the Mood for Love", Maggie Cheung has more than 30 sets of cheongsams.
After the release, many people were amazed at the beauty of the costumes, not only with the beauty of the oriental women, but also as a work of art.
There may be doubts about children's shoes. Why did the costumes of the wide-sleeved tutu that had been circulated for thousands of years before, suddenly disappeared in the Qing Dynasty? Rong Xiaobian succinctly said that after the Qing army entered the customs, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty forced the Manchu hair style and clothes style. For example, they had to let the Han men’s waist and long waists get rid of them, leaving an ugly behind the head. Little scorpion. (Hey! Do you know the parents who are physically skinned?) The Han people certainly didn't want to, and the group reacted strongly. When the rulers of the Qing Dynasty saw it, it seemed that this battle was a bit wrong, so they compromised one step and implemented the policy of “male men and women not to followâ€, that is, Han men must strictly follow Manchu costumes, while Han women still use The Ming Dynasty clothing shape. Therefore, women’s clothing was once in the early Qing Dynasty.
National flag robe
Two things have been coexisting for a long time, and it is inevitable that they will affect each other. Until the end, one of them completely disappeared. Later, on the basis of the Manchu flag and Western clothing style, the Han people gradually became popular among the women through the improved cheongsam. Entered thousands of households. In the 1930s, the improved cheongsam became a standard dress for Chinese women. The cheongsam is easy to use, easy to manufacture and easy to wear, which is the main reason for its replacement of ancient dresses.
Historical evolution of cheongsam style
After seeing the trend clothing collections of the ancients, do you think they can toss more than some current trendy women? (smirking ~) but tossing what is afraid! As long as it can be beautiful, we are not afraid of anything. In fact, the ancient Chinese costume culture is really vast. Here, Xiao Bian is just a lost one. I hope that I can open a small door for everyone, and the wonderful world inside will be left for you to explore. La.
Painting ancient style illustrations and writing articles is a truth. Kung Fu is often outside of kung fu. After understanding these costume cultures, I believe that the ancient characters in your paintings must have more charm!
Tips: The costume reference maps and materials of the dynasties have been packaged, and you can take it quickly!
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